WEDDING GOWNS: STRUCTURE
Nothing speaks more to convention in the design of a wedding gown than structure. Certain fabrics have become synonymous with this type of gown, providing form yet still able to be manipulated with precision to the desired design. Duchess satin and satin-polyester blends are the most well-known of structured fabrics and are ideal for A-lines, full or gathered skirts, mermaid shapes or a structured bustier. Some of my brides seek more volume, so I recommend they choose taffeta (which looks lavish in off-white) or organza. One of my favorite fabrics for structured looks is tulle, which is no longer relegated to the underpinnings of a gown. Tulle is charming and beautiful, expressing a sense of youth and femininity; it is not ideal, however, for dancing or moving about.
WEDDING GOWNS: LACE
Once cherished as the ultimate wedding fabric because of its delicacy, scarcity and cost, lace is now the realm of the more traditional brides. Symbolizing fragility and timelessness, nothing communicates tradition more than lace. There are numerous varieties of lace, each with its own weave and look. I love the delicacy of Chantilly lace and the elaborateness of Alencon or Venise. I recommend lace for morning or day weddings as it adds texture and adornment without the glitz of beading or shine. Lace can also be coupled with fabrics such as silk taffeta or satin to provide an element of tradition but not in an overwhelming way.
WEDDING GOWNS: NECKLINES
For many women, sensuality is expressed through the choice of a neckline, but how much is too much? Anything too obvious is seldom appropriate. The neckline of a wedding dress frames the bride's face and shoulders, and is critical to emphasizing (or deemphasizing) her bosom. For a small bosom, a deep V-neck is always flattering and a carved racer-front or narrow halter creates a sleek, sexy look. For a full bosom, choose a neckline that can hold extra stays or an additional layer of stretch lining for support. I recommend a crumb-catcher neckline as it flatters all sizes. In all cases, err on the side of discretion—even high necklines can be provocative if combined with an element of surprise, such as a low back.
WEDDING GOWNS: THE SKIRT
The shape of the skirt is what determines the look and movement of your wedding dress. There are a few key shapes to choose from: Make a grand impression with a full, gathered skirt or elongate your silhouette with a classic A-line. If you are tall and thin, a circular skirt can be incredibly graceful particularly in a chiffon fabric. If you are curvy, a mermaid shape is extremely flattering. Finally, I highly recommend a narrow column for a skirt shape that is a sophisticated alternative to a full gown. A floor-length sheath is a nod to eveningwear and is considered quite avant-garde for a wedding dress.
WEDDING GOWNS: THE BACK
The back of a wedding dress gets its fair share of attention and therefore should be conceived with this importance in mind. The charm of an artfully designed back lies in the intersection of cut, drape and detail (such as intricate seaming). I connect the back of the dress to the time of day of the wedding. For morning ceremonies, the back should never fall below the level of the bra fastening and should be adorned with traditional details such as tiny bows or ribbons. For late-day and especially evening weddings, a softer, lower drape and more bare skin is alluring and adornment can include sequins, beads and crystals to reflect light and add glamour. Remember, a bride's exit is as noteworthy as her entrance. Choose the back detail of your wedding dress accordingly.
WEDDING GOWNS: TRAINS & BUSTLES
A train that is integrated into the design of your wedding dress must be bustled. A bustle is achieved by lifting up the fabric of the train and fastening it to the rest of the dress with delicate buttons, loops, hooks, eyes or snaps—the bride can then move freely and comfortably among her guests. So you don't worry about the bustle coming undone, make sure the stitching of the fastenings is reinforced. I also recommend rehearsing the bustling process several times before your wedding day to avoid any last-minute challenges. Before you choose a wedding dress with an integrated train, take note that the bustle might add unwanted volume to your backside.
THE FOUNDATION
I always remind my brides to pay attention to what lies beneath. Your choice of undergarments is critical and should relate directly to the construction of your wedding dress as well as your body type. (A strapless bra does not work for a bride with a full chest, for example.) Choose bras and slips that are seamless to create smooth lines under your gown, and be sure all straps are covered. I recommend packing an extra bra on your wedding day in case one gets misplaced. For lavish ball gowns, some brides add more volume by wearing a second petticoat underneath. Remember this will shorten the skirt of the gown, so additional fabric will be required for the hem. As this is your wedding day, consider white foundations instead of skin-colored to celebrate the mood of the occasion.
VEILS
I feel the bridal veil is one of the most symbolic and transformational accessories a woman will ever wear. The donning of the veil is a ritual that exists in every culture around the world, creating a moment that is both sacred and seductive. In choosing your veil you must consider many factors, from the location and nature of the celebration to your facial structure and height to how the veil will fit with your hairstyle or headpiece. Veils come in a variety of shapes, lengths and decorations so work with your wedding consultant to find the best one for you and your wedding dress.
BRIDESMAID DRESSES
Not sure how to handle the bridesmaids dresses? Practically speaking, the bride's attendants will vary in shape and size so choose a common thread to capture the element of pageantry that their role brings to the celebration. I recommend a uniform color or fabric in different silhouettes to flatter each figure and maintain individuality. Another approach is to ask each attendant to select her own gown (perhaps in a certain color range) to be as inclusive as possible, and create a connection through a finishing touch such as jewelry, hair or makeup. If color is your connector, remember that pale colors work best for summer weddings and dark colors for winter celebrations.
FLOWER GIRLS
Children bring a youth and element of joy to any wedding. If you decide to include flower girls, their attire should reflect that of the bride's while remaining age appropriate. Modest necklines and ankle or mid-calf hemlines work best. Hair ornamentation is ideal for the flower girls—tailored bows, headbands or tiny rhinestone flowers on a barrette. Shoes should be elegant white, stain or ballet slippers that blend in tone. My favorite finishing touch for a flower girl is short, white cotton gloves. They look adorable and elegant. If the flower girls are holding bouquets, make sure they are small and easy to maneuver—anything complex will seem out of place on a small child.
COLOR PALETTE
Do you feel daring enough to add color to your wedding theme? Color speaks to each of us differently, and not all brides wish to move away from the tradition of white. For those who do, recognize that color can be added through small details or on the wedding dress itself. Think of tones more than the specific colors. For example: sophisticated pales such as rose, celadon or sky blue are flattering; elegant neutrals such as gray, taupe or stone are subtle; and intense brights such as fuchsia and periwinkle are dramatic and diverting. In all cases, color speaks to your imagination and your individuality.
BRIDAL BEAUTY
On your wedding day, stay true to yourself. It may sound cliché, but brides look most radiant when they look natural. Use makeup to enhance your features, not to create a mask. I recommend focusing on a skin-toned foundation to create an evenness and powder that reduces shine for photographs. Day or night, avoid brightly colored eye shadows or too elaborate an eye in general. Hair, also, should not disguise you or succumb to current trends. An amazing haircut and great blow dry will always surpass any contrived hairstyle. Hair accessories can be beautiful if chosen carefully—they should never overpower you or your gown. I particularly love simple hairstyles highlighted by a jeweled ornament (such as a brooch) to give the look additional meaning.
GETTING READY
Whether you get ready at the ceremony venue or somewhere else, a few must-dos will ensure getting ready goes smoothly. Follow a sequence: hair and makeup, followed by undergarments, then wedding gown and finally veil, accessories and lip color. Once you have your gown on, remain standing to avoid wrinkles (have a small steamer on hand just in case). Eat small, high-protein snacks all day and drink lots of water to stay hydrated. Get dressed in a separate room and, most importantly, spend a little time alone to prepare—figuratively and literally—for your big day. Take time to take in the moment.
THE BRIDAL BOUQUET
Traditionally, brides carried chaffs of wheat to invoke fertility and celebrate the joy of marriage. Today, the bridal bouquet still symbolizes beauty and the ritual of wedding. A traditional bouquet will always complement the gown—avoid excessive ribbons, ties, dollies or the like which will undermine (or overwhelm) your carefully chosen wedding dress. The bouquet can serve as a noteworthy accessory; make it extraordinary through choice of flowers and unusual color, not unnecessary frills. I love deep orange, black-red or purple against a traditional white wedding gown. Finally, remember to taper the stems and keep the tips visible otherwise the bouquet looks unnatural and too heavy for the delicate look of the bride.
AN ALTERNATIVE BOUQUET
Looking for a modern take on the bridal bouquet? There are noteworthy alternatives that, like a traditional bouquet, embody the beauty and the ritual of the wedding. I find a wrist corsage—small and graceful—to be a chic accessory as well as a practical alternative. A pinned corsage is elegant and incredibly flattering for a high-necked or off the shoulder gown (but pay careful attention to proportions here). A bride may also carry a bible, psalm or prayer book with a spring of her favorite flower fastened on or a precious object of sentimental value to commemorate this very personal moment. The processional is one of the most significant rites a woman will ever experience.
SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW...
A bit of superstition adds to the adventure of marriage. For your something old, something new or something borrowed—look to your handbag. Your handbag should never be an afterthought; in fact, it is one of the most difficult accessories to coordinate with your wedding gown. Without exception, your wedding handbag should be small, elegant and understated. To make an important connection between past and future, consider a vintage handbag from one of your older relatives or invest in a new piece that will become an heirloom when you pass it on. For your something blue, consider a hidden touch such as a blue ribbon sewn into your petticoat or a blue garter for your wedding leg.
THE RING PILLOW
Wondering if a ring pillow is too old fashioned? Far from it! The gesture of presenting the wedding bands at the altar endures as a modern wedding tradition. The style of the ring pillow should tie into the overall theme or décor of the wedding and, ideally, coordinate with the bride's wedding dress. Edges lined with silk braid, velvet piping or ribbons always look refined. Anything too ornate should be saved for the most extravagant weddings. One touch I love is when couples embroider their names and the date of the ceremony on the pillow to commemorate the occasion.
CEREMONY MUSIC
I have noted over the years that the choice of music for the wedding ceremony is often one of the last considerations. The ceremony music is, in fact, critical as it affects everything else. I recommend separating the music into three parts: the processional should reflect music that is personal to the couple and draws out the emotions of the guests; the music during the ceremony itself should capture the dramatic moments of the service; and the music during the recessional should celebrate joy and happiness. When it comes to music, the possibilities are endless, so don't feel tied to classical music alone!
THE RECESSIONAL
While the processional celebrates the bride, the recessional pays tribute to the new couple and the glorious possibilities of their future together. It's easy for the couple to get carried away by the euphoria and joy that inevitably marks the end of a wedding service. Avoid the urge to race down the aisle amidst all that excitement. I always encourage my brides (and their grooms) to take a moment to pause and acknowledge family and guests, giving them a chance to bask in the moment. Also, choose uplifting, celebratory music and make sure the photographer and videographer are stationed both behind and in front of the newlyweds to capture all angels.
THE TOASTS
What role do you want the toasts to play in your wedding? Toasts can range from heartfelt words from your father to humorous roasts from friends to informal speeches from those who wish to contribute—this last approach is a particularly nice form of entertainment at small, intimate receptions. Regardless of how you weave them in, toasts bring an important emotional element as your family and circle of friends express their warmth, enthusiasm and support for your union. Just make sure to keep them short, as a long speech can be very tedious. While the toasts at my wedding were moving, the most memorable moment was the impromptu serenade by my longtime friend, composer Martin Charnin, who wrote lyrics especially for us. We will always treasure this special gift of friendship.
THE GARTER TOSS
Today, the wedding garter is a beloved keepsake and reminder of the ritual of getting married. Traditionally, the groom removes the garter from the bride's leg and tosses it into the crowd of remaining bachelors—the one who catches it will become engaged next. If you wish to include this light-hearted ritual in your wedding, choose a simple garter, comfortable and unobtrusive under your wedding gown. I recommend having two garters on hand—one to toss and one to keep. The garter is also a perfect opportunity to add "something blue" in your wedding look. Finally, make sure the bachelors and the wedding photographer/videographer are aware of the toss so that it takes place with spirit and style.
THE CAKE-CUTTING CEREMONY
If there is one wedding tradition I feel is important to uphold even today, it's the cutting of the cake. The wedding cake itself represents joy and imagination, and can come in all shapes, styles, textures and tastes. The cutting of the cake, however, is the highly ritualistic moment that marks the beginning of the couple's life together and a tradition that should be adhered to as closely as possible: The groom place his right hand over the bride's and guides her as she cuts the first piece. He feeds her, then she in turn feeds him, this shared first piece of the wedding cake represents their first meal together.
TABLE DESIGN
With the china, silverware and stemware anchoring the design of your wedding table, you can begin accessorizing. Consider elements such as table linens, place cards, menu cards, centerpieces and party favors as you put together the overall look. In particular, table napkins create an interesting design statement as well as contrasts in color and texture. For a touch of the old-fashion, create menu cards that also serve as keepsakes of the special evening. For efficient budgeting, add design through clever napkin folds or more ornate place cards or menu cards in lieu of elaborate flowers. When it comes to party favors, choose something thoughtful and personal as your way of thanking guests, and place them in clear view at each seat so guests who must leave early will not forget their favors.
THE SEATING CHART
Mix up the reception with a whimsical seating plan of different shaped tables or add some intrigue with an unexpected proportion. Combine rectangles, squares, rounds and ovals or set up an extra long table for the wedding party. The table where the bride and groom are seated should always stand out from those of the guests either with shape, placement in the room or more extravagant decoration. For large receptions, find a way to acknowledge those guests who are seated the furthest away—I suggest more prominent centerpieces or a configuration similar to the wedding party. It's never nice to feel lost at the fringes. Try to seat those who like to dance as close to the dance floor as possible so they can get the party started!
THE COCKTAIL HOUR
Your obligation as hosts begins with the cocktail hour! While the wedding ceremony, with its rituals and pageantry, is a focus on you as a couple, the cocktail hour kicks off the fun part of the evening. Whether in an adjoining room or a separate location, choose decoration, food and music that create a definitive shift in the ambiance. One touch that I always appreciate, and highly recommend, is an easy transition (including transportation) between sites—the considerate touch of a thoughtful host.
THE GETAWAY
The final departure from the wedding depends on if the bride and groom want to leave their own party. Many weddings take place at night, and couples prefer to while the night away with their guests and flowing champagne to a big send-off. (In my case, I actually watched our wedding decorations being dismantled in anticipation of the next wedding.) A key member of the wedding party such as the best man should cue the guests if the couple plans a departure and remember to decorate the car, carriage or whatever for the final farewell. For those sticking around, a midnight breakfast is the perfect way to transition the reception to a late-night catch up with old friends who have come to celebrate your big day.
THE DAY AFTER
A brunch or casual luncheon the day after the wedding provides a gentle transition between the excitement of the wedding and the intimacy of the honeymoon. It also brings closure to the festivities. Keep this event relaxed and leisurely, with a focus on thanking family and friends who have travelled a great distance to be there. Enlist your maid/matron of honor and best man to handle after-the-wedding details so you can focus on your guests. I also recommend waiting a day before departing for the honeymoon so you can unwind and take in the special moment.
THE WEDDING ALBUM
Overwhelmed by the post-wedding process of organizing your wedding album? It's natural—in fact, the daunting task of putting the album together is often postponed or altogether abandoned. Try to tackle it as soon as the photographs arrive. Most photographers will present you with proofs or an online photo gallery to review all the images. Edit carefully to keep your budget down and remember that any special effects will add costs. Bind the album itself in durable material such as leather or fabric and include acid-free paper, matting and taped corners to secure each photograph. For a personal touch, add a monogram or silk ribbon. The sooner you complete your album—the most tangible documentation of the wedding day—the sooner you can show it off.